Color adjusting for accuracy in yarn and roving colors for the NON-camera geek

Ilga often gets comments from customers about how the colors of the fibers look JUST LIKE THE PICTURES. This is not an accident. Ilga takes every image into Photoshop and plays with it until it is as close to the original as she can make it. Another thing, be sure your monitor is color calibrated (check the manual to see how). Whether you use Photoshop or another photo manipulation program isn’t important. Whether your picture is for Ravelry, sending to your great-aunt, or just for your records, color accuracy is important.

Here is a series of three pictures adjusting a photo. If in doubt, practice with having flesh tones in the picture.

 

Photo directly from camera

Photo directly from camera

The first picture is right out of the camera. Telltale signs that something is wrong are the murky whites, the dull contrast in the yarn and that bright pink thumb.

 

White balance

Photo after white balancing

The second picture is after white levels are adjusted. The white is brighter, but still a little pink,  the colors in the yarn are perkier, but that thumb is still a problem.

 

Final image

Final image

In the third picture, the magenta and cyan color ranges are adjusted down. Now the white background is less pink (and so is the thumb) and the yarn doesn’t look as yellowed.

This is not CHEATING, this is making sure that the colors of your picture actually match the real world a little better.

Other tips: Get to know your camera. Ilga IS NOT a camera whiz/geek/whatever…this is more about being observant. (Some cameras allow you to adjust greys against a known (read: you need to buy it) grey card. There are little idiosyncrasies of your camera and light which you can learn.  Ilga’s camera LOVES greens, is very good with blues (it’s digital, film cameras HATE blues), and is a little too rambunctious with reds.

Notice which times of day are best for making the most accurate pictures. NEVER take your pictures in direct bright sunlight. Keep your backgrounds simple.

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Tips For Fast Spinning

Ilga is sometimes asked how she achieves her high spinning productivity. Here is her answer. This has previously appeared on the Edgewood Garden Studio Facebook page, and on Ravelry, but we post it here so it will be easy to find in the future.

Well, first, I spin every day…or pretty close. If I am FLYING somewhere, I don’t take a spinning wheel…but if I am DRIVING and will be gone overnight, I generally have a wheel with me.

The other BIG productivity help is that I do NOT inch-worm spin. When I used to teach (decades ago), I really discouraged people of spinning that way. It is slow and it can never BE fast because of the actions required. I draw against the pull of the wheel…and not against my hands (which saves my hands, too). I used to long draw, but the body parts (as in shoulders) don’t want to do that any longer.

Depending on what I am spinning, I spin between 150 and 375 yards an hour, average 250ish. I approached the “production speed” problem by doing what my typing teacher in high school (Yup, my parents made me….that “just in case” stuff.) which was that I spend a few days every other week or so alternating between spinning for accuracy and for speed. So one skein is SUPER FAST, the next one SUPER ACCURATE…and I do that for three or four days. It usually improves BOTH speed and accuracy.

If a skein is too much, try an hour (or half an hour or 15 minutes) of spinning as fast as you can while still making a functional yarn. (Use some stash wool you don’t LOVE anyway….and don’t worry about how it turns out. This is about PROCESS, not product!) THEN, do an hour of PERFECT yarn. Then FAST, then PERFECT. Repeat. You will be surprised how quickly both of them improve.

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A Roving, Start to Finish

A couple of friends who work in glass and jewelry are thinking about putting up Etsy shops. One of them watched Ilga do her Photoshop magic to get a picture ready for listing and was impressed. Another, just entered a This Old House bathroom remodel contest (and is still in the running – Yeah!) and was daunted by the work it takes to make a photo ready for the internet.

Ilga put together a list of steps…and then we expanded that to include all the steps necessary to take a roving from start to finish in our store. Beware, this is not for the faint of heart!

  1. After the wool is ordered and delivered, Ilga weighs out the rovings into 4 ounce pieces.
  2. On the day of dyeing, Ilga places each roving into a bin and adds water for it to soak.
  3. Mike mixes and keeps the dyes topped up in my squeeze bottles during the whole day of dyeing.
  4. Next we put out plastic wrap, squeeze out the excess water and arrange the roving onto the plastic wrap.
  5. THE FUN PART: Ilga squeezes the dyes onto the roving!!!
  6. Ilga massages the color into the roving, folds over the plastic, rolls it up and puts it into a bin. Meanwhile, Mike starts the propane burner under the steaming pot (outside on the patio).
  7. When we have an appropriate number, Mike takes the roving packages out to put into the colander in the steaming pot.
  8. After an hour, we remove the  steamed packages, put them into a bin to cool
  9. When the roving is cool, Ilga takes the rovings, unwraps them and one-by-one, rinses them in two to four bins of water, until the water runs clear.
  10. We lay the squeezed out rovings onto towels, fold them over, stomp on them, roll them up for about half an hour and wait.
  11. Then the rovings are taken up to the living room railing, unrolled and are arranged by wool type on the railing. It takes about two days for the rovings to dry. The towels go to the drier for the next batch.
  12. Using a large crochet hook, Ilga chains the rovings and rolls them into coils. We then move them back to the studio.
  13. We name each roving and Mike weighs it and puts it in the database with weight, name, fiber info. Ilga takes a knitting needle and tucks in the ends.
  14. Ilga then takes two photos of the front and two of the back. (Just for insurance. Sometimes one is bad—lighting, focus, something.) Also, the light needs to be indirect natural light, so timing is everything on this. She takes the pictures under skylights, not too early or too late. (For yarns, she takes a minimum of eight photos, one for each: Detail, spiral, skein, and basket.)
  15. We make a directory for the photos in an Etsy Rovings directory on Ilga’s computer.
  16. Next, Transfer the photos from the camera card to the named hard drive directory.
  17. In Photoshop: crop two of the pictures (one front, one back) and size them to 800 dpi for Etsy and save them with their names and whether they are front or back. Example: Nightingale front ETSY.jpg or Nightingale back ETSY.jpg
  18. In Photoshop: level whites (this is two steps in the program to get it right). Lighten and desaturate any shadows around the roving.
  19. Do a color balance (select the roving and adjust cyan 10% and magenta 20%, which are always a little off). Sometimes requires adjustment to blue as well.
  20. Next brighten the photo and, if necessary, adjust the contrast..
  21. Adjust the vibrance down so that it is not too stark.. (All of this checking against the actual roving which is under a full-spectrum light bulb next to Ilga’s computer.)
  22. Desaturate the edges around the roving to make it look more settled..
  23. Use the Smart Sharpen command until you can see the texture of the fiber.
  24. Save the two images. (Whew!)
  25. Write up a descriptive paragraph for the roving. (Ilga does this in email and mails it to Mike. The photos are stored in a mutually networked directory.) We pack up the roving into its little bag. Meanwhile, Mike has printed the little labels that are shipped in each bag, and has cut them (we print them 6 to a page). We put the label in on the back side of the roving.
  26. Mike takes the data from the spreadsheet, the adjusted photos, and the descriptive paragraph, adds keywords, fills out the Etsy forms (including fiber info, shipping costs, etc.), then puts the listing into Drafts.
  27. When we have a few done, Mike lists each roving that’s sitting in Drafts. Then one of us moves the roving back from the first page (since we keep the roving and yarns separate.)
  28. Mike sends out a Twitter when we have a bunch done…and we move the actual rovings from our (adjacent) desks to the studio onto the table for “on-line” rovings which is next to the “reserved” table. Across the way is “sold” and waiting for packing and shipping.
  29. When a roving is sold, it moves to the sold table with a PayPal generated packing slip. It is also marked sold on our spreadsheet with the date.
  30. Ilga wraps up the package,  adds tea, our card and a small handwritten note on the packing slip. She  seals it and puts a tiny tag onto the outside with the recipient’s first name (with initial, if, say, we have two Julie’s or Linda’s.)
  31. Mike takes the package and weighs it for shipping—with everything but the shipping label (he adds that known weight on).
  32. Mike prints the label (postage paid), puts it on the package and collects the day’s mailing in a big bin. If the package is international (we ship to about 15 countries) he prints and fills out the customs form. He drives the day’s packages down to the post office (about 3 miles one-way), comes home and marks the Etsy/PayPal site with “shipped.”
  33. After about 2 hours, Mike goes to PayPal and manually enters the tracking numbers for international packages. On the mailing record of the Post Office website, he enters our email address for each package that we have shipped so that we will be notified when the package arrives. And then we sit back eating bon-bons and hope that the package is delivered correctly and that the recipient will like it.

Easy, right?

Rovings waiting to be listed on Etsy

Rovings and yarn waiting to be listed on Etsy

 

 

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